After many requests I finally have my hands on a Power2Max NGeco power meter and have put it through the Lama Lab! This video covers all the details…. including being swooped by magpies while testing this out on the road.
Type: Spider Based Power Meter.
Accuracy: ±2% (Now upgradable to ±1% €100 at time of purchase)
Power: 10W-2999W
Cadence: 30-250 (No magnet required)
Battery: CR2450 / Up to 300hrs / Battery Status LED
Wireless: ANT+ / Bluetooth Smart
Data: Power, Cadence
Data Upgrades: L/R Balance, Pedal Smoothness. (US$59 each) Torque(?)
Auto-Zero: Yes.
Temperature Compensation: Yes.
Oval Chainring Support: Yes (according to their website!)
Warranty: 2 years. (Upgradable to 5 €150 at time of purchase)
Price: From €490 / US$490 / AU$890
*You’ll need a crankset and chainrings too!
Power2Max Official: https://bit.ly/34Whtki
Power2Max Australia: https://bit.ly/3lThvk7
Nice review. I have read that direct drive trainers read 2-4% lower than pedal or crank atm powet meters due to energy lost in the drivetrain. You don’t see any loss. Comparing my Precision 4iiii I have 1-3% lower power in my new Kickr. Is it true power is lower when measured in the rear axle compared to pedal/crank atm or is my crank arm power meter reading high?
All power meters and smart trainers are self-certified by the companies who make them. Typically they don’t publish any detail on this process. This means we don’t know if they’re factoring in drivetrain losses by using different measurement points. Drivetrain loss is also a tough one to quantify. It changes based on the equipment condition, gear you’re in, chain angle, and torque applied. I haven’t seen any recent /independent/ studies on the efficiency of newer generation groupsets, so there’s no reference point. If you’re using a dual sided Shimano L/R 4iiii unit then there’s a whole other can of worms in regard to that unit and power measurement accuracy.
The tests I perform are with an optimal chainline, equipment, etc, and shouldn’t see any more difference than the manufacturer accuracy spec between the two…. with maybe a lean towards the on-bike meter being a few watts higher. Never lower though.
At the end of the day a power meter should measure the energy expended. If it’s not accurate to the energy you are expending, it’s not doing what is sold. If people have to factor in numbers I’ve seen thrown around such as 7% drivetrain loss, then this really needs to be published by the manufacturer… and people need to keep clear of using those power sources for esports.
Good review and thank you for that.
I have been using it in the deserts of Arabia for a year now and not a single issue.
Thank you for the review. I been in the market for a power meter for a while and after your review made the decision to buy a power2max ng power meter. I followed ur instorement instructions and I’m super happy with your explanations . Everything works perfect and looks great. Thank you
Was the power meter unit you tested, sent by power2max for you to test? Or did you order it “anonymously”?
Just curious because of your test results. What do you think of the 1% accuracy upgrade for €100, is it worth it?
For the testing I do, the 1% is worth it. This was an off-the-shelf consumer unit. They didn’t have time to get a factory one to AU between the time I requested a unit and it was delivered.
When you did your review of the Power2Max NGeco was it the standard 2% version or was it an upgraded 1% version?
It was the 2% unit (which can very well be as accurate as a 1% unit, it’s just not certified to that level at P2M, iirc).